Wednesday 25 December 2013

by Nur Habibah Ishak, Junior 1 Cempaka, Class of 2014

If there was one piece of clothing worth investing in, it would have been the sweater and more specifically, the sweatshirt. Givenchy set the sweatshirt trend a few seasons ago — ever since a dog’s head (a Rottweiler, with a snarling nose and panting tongue) growled from the catwalk of the Givenchy men’s show. And now, this trend is popping up in countless other street fashion collections, filling the Autumn/Winter collections of 2013 with a plethora of cozy garments. 


Bottega Veneta

With rich imagination and creativity, designers are experimenting not only with colour or print (if you’re not into Bambi, the leopard print is a smart option or maybe even some Jeremy Scott), but with architectural shapes, materials and graphic logos too (Kenzo’s got this in the bag) - making the sweater into a fashion item to suit everyone’s taste. Plus, comedic catchphrases can add a certain affinity to that sense of humour - much like Ashish’s contrasting phrases; from “Have a Nice Day” and “Don’t Forget To Smile” to “Shut Up, You’re Not My Real Dad”;  Behavior that now seems frisky and semi-adorable would have landed you in reform school 60 years ago. Presentation isn’t the only key factor here though. The main point of wearing a sweater is to keep you warm, no? Unless of course, it’s for the sake of fashion which in my case, is quite frequent. 


Jeremy Scott sweater

At this point in the season, it’s safe to assume you’re building a close-knit relationship with your favorite sweaters. The story this winter - unfortunately not in Malaysia - is either the big cotton sweatshirt, a version in high-tech fabric, or the original thick wool knit sweater worn with a full, knee-length skirts or with pants and other fitted bottoms. The lower halves that go with the modern tops are often conventionally designed: full skirts, others pleated and some long and slightly transparent. Pants are narrow, recalling the image of Marilyn Monroe photographed in a chunky sweater with taut knee-length trousers. Now we all know the actual sweating part (thus sporting) has nothing to do with this hit item; not anymore at least. Just make sure to pair it with some type of skirt (as seen at Hilfiger, Matthew Williamson, Kenzo, and Philip Lim) to give it an extra feminine twist. Sweater combos of all types and varieties rolled down the runways of the top designers for Autumn/Winter 2013.


Balmain

Bottega Veneta created a simple Italian day-to-night look, with a matching colour palette that hides the casualness of a sweater. In Paris, Nina Ricci came up with a beautiful evening statement look, combining a silk evening skirt and layered cashmere sweaters with a cropped sleeve and matching wrist warmers. An oversized knit also acts as a dress, with a plain neckline and V-neck in fashion (as seen in Vivienne Westwood Red Label and Chanel). Although power hips and shoulders aren’t my taste, Balmain courageously rocked the Eighties feel with a structured (MC Hammer alert!) as well as one-off shoulder looks paired with magnified waists and voluminous harem hybrids below.


Nina Ricci

Inevitably, the sharp, fast-fashion companies have followed the trend. And it’s just as well, because the designer prices for what would once have been considered as sport and weekend wear have now soared sky high. Click on Net-a-Porter and the cost of a sweater for the top designer labels is $2,000 to $3,000, with the Givenchy Bambi — sold out almost everywhere — in Neoprene at $1,375. At cheapest, prices for these upscale sweatshirts start at at least $150. 


The Givenchy Bambi sweater

Based on New York Times, not only is the cost of a sweater for the top designer labels increasing but it crosses genres and genders too. A business once raised in cashmere and class has become more tougher and androgynous nowadays. The basic materials are often high tech and presented in a street style; the sloppy shape of a sweater not meant to imprint a shapely figure or enhance feminine allure. No complaints though. I still love sweaters.

Half a century ago, the pretty, decorated shrugs were plainly meant to lend a bit of cozy warmth to chilly shoulders, but sweaters now prove to be a sign of elegance - Riccardo Tsici, you did good. Seventy years ago, who knew that sheer skirts and pointed heels could make Bambi look glamorous?
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